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© GREAT LEAP 2001

 

Nobuko in Cuba: Isla de La Juventud

August 2001

IN CUBA: MUSIC IS MEMORY

    In Cuba music lives everywhere
    A living memory of Cuba’s complex and contradictory social fabric
    In the airport musicians play a folk song of Che Guevara
    In Habana, street fairs reel with sound of salsa
    In a restaurant, a guitarist sings songs of the Buena Visa Social Club
    In a churchyard, a band plays Christian rock, a new phenomena
    In a starkly humble sidewalk apartment
    Tamboleos play the cosmology of sacred rhythms for a Santaria ceremony
    In the elegant Teatro Roldan a brilliant young, black, dreadlocked pianist plays a nine-foot grand piano
    traversing with ease from Chopin to Cuban composer Felix Guerrero

    But on the Isla de la Juventud
    in the town of Nueva Gerona
    I saw again music playing its role as living memory

    Sitting across from us, 4 women…
    Three generations of the Iha family
    The elders were nisei’s, Benita Eiko,
    Retired librarian who is writing a book about Japanese on the Isla
    And her sister, Maria, a retired accountant
    Both could look like our mothers or aunties
    Maria’s daughter, Julieta, a hapa, is a child psychologist
    With eyes Japanese but features fading into Cuban
    And her 16 year old daughter, Narryman,
    A yonsei, only one quarter Japanese
    Narryman studies piano at the International School in Habana
    We asked who her favorite pianist was
    "Keith Jarrett…" she replied…"jazz"
    The blockade has not stopped music travel

    They served us Café Cubano apologizing for un-matching cups
    A small privation compared to the many they suffer from the blockade
    Of course, I wouldn’t have matching cups for 5 guests and my family
    At my house either

    They told us stories of their father and mother’s journey
    From Okinawa to Camaguey in central Cuba in the 20’s
    Working on plantations
    Finally making their way to the Isla De La Juventud in the 30’s
    Hearing the land was rich
    During WWII Senor Iha was imprisoned on the Isla
    With 350 other Japanese Cubanos
    Separated from their wives and families
    For hours we traded stories, comparing experiences
    Then I asked if they knew any Japanese songs
    They looked at each other and unabashedly broke into an old folk song
    Their beautiful voices brought us all chills and tears
    Realizing how far that song had traveled
    Wanting to reciprocate we circled the room to see what songs we knew
    I could only remember one childhood song
    "Po po po hato popo…."
    They jumped in singing "mame oyadekada toden dekko ye"
    A song…we all knew…together
    Passed on for a hundred years
    From Okinawa and Japan
    To Cuba and California
    A simple song, that will always make me feel
    the Iha’s are my Cuban family